Y.Chroma Journal

Join us on our journey of midlife male re-invention. The places we go, the brand we build, the clothes we wear and the craftsmanship that drives us.

Journal | THE BUILD
The shirt cut jacket in its glorious Parisian fabrics
The Build


The shirt cut jacket in its glorious Parisian fabrics

Max Israel · Jul 02, 2024

Read the customer reviews for the Varial on my website if you don't believe how insanely cool these fabrics are. They are Insanely. Freaking. Cool. 

Those glorious textiles come from a boutique Parisian textile mill called Malhia Kent. Ever seen that famous photo of Jackie O rocking her iconic Chanel dress? Malhia Kent made that fabric. That's the status of legend we're talking about here.

I had an apartment in Paris' 1st Arrondissement at the time (he says, casually), and MK's showroom and sample archives were just a brisk walk along the Seine away. I immersed myself. (In the archives, not the Seine.)

I was elated when I had the fabrics in hand. But I would soon discover that the real work was just beginning. One of the ironies of creating excellent clothes is that the very best fabrics are frequently the hardest to work with.

 This is tailoring, as opposed to more straightforward sewing. The outside fabric must be bonded with other structural fabrics in specific places to give it form, exactly as a suit is made.

 Then the inside must be entirely lined with a second garment - the charcoal or cognac silk interior that lets it slide on and off effortlessly. You need experts for that with the hands of surgeons and, well, tailors.

One of the closely held secrets in the world of fashion is that many such experts live in a crescent of eastern Europe that’s been making everything from couture suits to various empires’ military uniforms for two centuries. (Don’t ask which uniforms.) Your Varial is made by a team of remarkable people, just a couple hours drive from Sofia, Bulgaria. They are generally women, and the install base of expertise is often passed mother-to-daughter, so seeing generations of women in the same team is not uncommon.

My principal designer, the award-winning Nikolay Pachev, is originally from Sofia. Nicky spent weeks in the little town where we make these to personally watch over every detail. This never would have come together without his obsessive focus on execution.

 My customers love the Varial Shirt-cut Jacket not just for the stunning fabrics. They like wearing something made with obvious care. From the stitching to the placement of each button to the careful assembly of the magnets we place under collars and pockets to keep things in place. It rings with coolness and quality. I hope you'll feel every bit of that when you wear yours.